Tuesday, 27 March 2012

Lesson 4- Chikan embroidery sal


Hi
Today let’s learn whipped back stitch, detached chain variation and roman stitch.
1. The line which is marked as ‘P1’ in the design (refer stitch guide) has to be completed with whipped back stitch.
2. The small circles and a small tear drop shape which are marked as ‘C ‘in the design (refer stitch guide)   has to be completed with detached chain stitch variation.
3. The lines which are marked as ‘B’ (refer stitch guide) has to be completed with roman stitch.

WHIPPED BACK STITCH

To practice this stitch trace the design no. 5 from the practice designs onto your doodle cloth and follow the instructions below and stitch.
NOTE: I’VE USED A SECOND COLOUR THREAD JUST TO SHOW THE WHIPPING PART CLEARLY.DO NOT USE A SECOND COLOUR THREAD IN YOUR PROJECT.USE THE SAME COLOUR AND SAME NO. OF STRANDS FOR BOTH BACK STITCH AND WHIPPING .

                                               
Step 1: Work back stitch first. Bring the needle and thread up at ‘a’ as shown.

                                          
Step 2: Pass the needle under the first stitch as shown in the image above.

                                          
Step 3: Pull the needle and thread.

                                          
Step 4: Pass the needle under the next stitch as shown in the image above.

                                           
Step 5: Pull the needle and thread.

                                           
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you finish the design. Go back down and end the thread.
Complete the line which is marked as ‘P1’ in the design (refer stitch guide) with whipped back stitch.

DETACHED CHAIN STITCH

To practice this stitch trace the design no. 13 from the practice designs onto your doodle cloth and follow the instructions below and stitch.

                                            
Step 1: Bring the needle and thread up at ‘a’.

                                          
Step 2: Make a chain stitch.

                                           
Step 3: Go back down and come up again at ‘a’.

             

                                                                       
Step 4: Make another chain stitch on top of the first chain made.

                                           
Step 5: Go back down and end the thread.

NOTE: Go down for the second stitch into the same point as first one or little closer to the end point of the first stitch if your fabric is thin.
Complete the small circles and a small tear drop shape which are marked as ‘C ‘in the design (refer stitch guide) with detached chain stitch variation.

ROMAN STITCH

                                               
Step 1: Bring the needle and thread up at ‘a’. Go down at ‘b’, forming a straight stitch.

                                          
Step 2: Bring the needle and thread up again at ‘c’.

                                         
Step 3: Go back down at ‘d’, forming a cross stitch above the straight stitch made in step 1.

This is the method of working roman stitch in surface embroidery. In Chikan embroidery, both the above method of working roman stitch and also another method where angle of the cross stitch changes (which is shown below) are used.You can follow either the above method or the one shown below to work roman stitch in your project.

              

                                                                      
Complete the lines which are marked as ‘B’in the design (refer stitch guide) with roman stitch.
  
Trace the design no.8 from the practice designs onto your doodle cloth and complete it with roman stitch.

            

                                                                          
This is used as an all-over motif in chikan blouses.

I noticed that a couple of participants have some doubts and are finding lesson 3 little difficult. So here are some tips to those who find a lesson difficult when more than 2 stitches or elements are dealt with. Read the full instructions carefully first. Next step is to proceed with one stitch or one element/shape at a time, read the instructions for first stitch/element carefully ,try to understand how it’s stitched and then make a note of where that stitch has to be worked which I’m writing at the end of that particular stitch instructions in bold letters always . Complete that  first part in your design and go to the next part of the lesson, read the instructions and complete that element in your design…This is what I do and hope this helps.
If you have any doubts e-mail me at artisticfingers2012@gmail.com. 

Happy stitching!
Anita.

14 comments:

letslearnembroidery said...

Thanks for the lessons.

deanna7trees said...

looks great. I caught up last night and am ready to start this lesson. thanks.

Connie Eyberg Originals said...

I just posted my completed Lesson 4 on my blog.

http://ceoriginals.blogspot.com/2012/03/chikan-lesson-4-completed.html

Anita said...

@Connie - Aha! so soon....I like it.

Gembirdie said...

Hi Anita - I'm confused. For the detached chain stitch variation, you make the two chain stitches almost on top of each other, the second one is just a tad larger than the first one. But on your picture, I can see a hole within the second chain stitch, and then it's filled up. So how do I fill it up? Or do I just pull the second chain stitch much tighter than the first one?

Isabelle (of course...)

nancie said...

anita, in detached chain stitch variation how u covered the middle gap (step 4)? it is not showing in step 5 picture.do we have to make a straight stitch after finishing the second chain??

Anita said...

@ Gembirdie(Isabelle) - Both the chains should be of same size.I'd placed it like that to show that there are 2 chains.When you make the second stitch on top of the first one and pull the needle there'll be very little hole or no hole.You've got to pull the second detached chain just like the first one,not tighter.When you go down and finish either the hole gets closed or reduced in size.You can see both in traditional chikan embroidery.I guess it depends on the embroiderer who stitched that piece.Hope I'm clear.If not please let me know.

Anita said...

@ nancie - There is no straight stitch.You've to stitch a detached chain first and a second detached chain on top of the first one and go down and end the thread,that's it.I've placed it like that to show that there are 2 chains.After you finish the second detached chain either there will be little hole or no hole.You can see both in chikan embroidery.

deanna7trees said...

finished this lesson and posted a pic on my blog. I love the whipped back stitch when using the same color. I've done it before with 2 different colors but this has such a different effect.
http://eclectic-meanderings.blogspot.com

Sandy said...

Finally, enough progress to show someone! It's on http://magpiestitcher.wordpress.com - it's the only post so far; you won't have to search for it! ;)
Your instructions are fine - setting up the blog was harder work than the stitching!

MosaicMagpie said...

I am all caught up and will post photos Wednesday.
Deb

Anita said...

@ Deb - That's great job!.I like it.

RajiSaj said...

Anita its getting really interesting , my works are here http://threadwithme.blogspot.in/2012/04/sal-chikan-embroidery-lessons-3-and-4.html

raji.

Diane said...

Finally, I'm all caught up! You can see my progress on my blog: http://dianesdecoratingdiary.blogspot.com